Sunday arvo in Nasca - 27th Aug,
I am on the move!!! Lima is definitely not a city to visit unless you hav e some reason. It is just a big city with too much pollution - maybe 10 million = one third of population and two thirds of industry. I wanted to see it and had two contacts to look up - one from Laurie McCullem, in USA and the other family of a girl who liked my web site and wrote me several times. Had success on both counts. Laurie”s friend had coffee with me and tried to devise a fixed tour for the rest of my time in Peru, but was 3 times my own expected cost so outside my budget. But the family was wonderful - thank you Marita - had wine, lunch, went for a drive then left them. They gave me a parting gift on top of it all!!! Lovely people - Luis and Eda (and children). Thank you.
Arranged to depart early Sat for Nasca but they lied thru their teeth about the times the departures, and the arrival times. Ending up taking almost 9 hrs instead of promised 6 !!!! (minor miscalculation!!) - of course it was the cheap bus - does not normally happen that way on luxury buses. Anway Nasca is a lovely little town/city in the middle of a desert, supposed to house 50,000 but has only two main paved streets and everything is walking distance. If you come here stay at the Hotel AlegrÃa which has a pool, patios, restaurant, and single rooms from $5 to $20. Very pleasant and commodious. Do not confuse with a competitor called "Hostal AlegrÃa" I presume capitalising on name.
Did the air flight over the Nasca lines this morn (Brian, a Cessna 206, I think). They were put there between 300 BC and 600 AD and very little is known. Von Danikens theory that they are from extra terrestials does not hold water - altho there are some unexplained oddities -Â like the astonaut. Many straight lines going for over 500 mts to a km in length plus shapes of birds, dog, monkey, whale, spider etc . The area has not seeen significant rain since last ice age and depends on melting snow and rain in mtns to provide water in the two rivers. It is thought that there was a prolonged drought which wiped out most of people, then white-man diseases killed the rest when Spanish came.
I have many photos but don”t know what they look like on screen yet - will send them to mary - but you can look them up on internet.
Nothing else of interest in Nasca, except some more ruins like those I have seen, so tonite i move on. To Arequita, 2nd most dangerous city listed in Guide book, 1 million; and has access to the two deepest canyons on earth, one is twice the depth of Grand Canyon. From there in a couple of days to Cusco and Machu Picchu, very high, then later on to Bolivia.
I am well ahead of schedule as I cut out some of those side trips in Peru to the mountain ruins and volcanoes. And I will not spend much time in Chile as there is little of interest there - just lots of cities. So should be home early October I think. Before the baby, Natalie!!!!
Thanks to Brian, Merlin, Alicia, Margarita G for your mails.
Weather here is very pleasant, warm days cool nights, but lots of cloud in winter. Basically never rains on the west coast here - all depends on the rivers from the mtns. Arequipa is a bit higher so has no fog/smog from Trade Winds, so has sun 365 days a year I am told. Very pleasant all yr round. Still not that far south of equator so that keeps weather warm-ish in most places.
Have a 9 hr bus trip overnight tonite, to Arequipa.
Love to all, bye till next session.
Nobby
PS I do not boil water at all and accept coffee made from whatever they use. I eat lettuce in their salads, and drink from their glasses.
If the fotos go on the site they will either be available directly on the blog page, or Paul may may a link to a separate page. For an example of a blog with pictures, go to the link on the right of the blog which says something like "favourite links", and go to Paul”s personal blog.
I am now in Arequipa and do a 2 day tour starting early Tuesday.
Sunday, August 27, 2006
Friday, August 25, 2006
Report # 13
Hello to everyone - Here they say "alo" a lot - esp on phones
Well I have a whole week of adventures to relate- it will take ages!!!
There was a demonstration by idigenous peoples in Cuenca while I was walking around so got some nice photos of trad dress.
Left at midnight arrived Loja 05.00 but ticket for first bus at 07.00 wait around. Girl talks to me and sits in front of me on bus. She is Ecuad with parents and her chile friend going to Lima. so we chat a fair bit. Very nice people. Raquel and Veronica.. Man and small boy sit next to me at half way and he chats, is a policeman and I record some of converstion. Heavy duty mtns non stop to border - up and down and twist and shout. Get to Macará¡ which is border and is super hot, and they grow rice.
Veronica”s dad has a "cousin" who is money changer so we hurry several blocks to the plaza where they operate and change some dollars.
The land from here on is flat dry dusty and arid like you wouln”t believe. But first to Ecuad-exit get stamp then walk across bridge to Peru immig and get stamp plus you must go to a second Peru office for another stamp - I almost missed that one!! Raquel saved me!
We arrive Piura, 50 kms inland from ocean, about 2.00pm. Veronica and family take taxi and insist I wait for him to return and not walk. OK.
Shower, walk streets, take laundry to shop, internet to mary. Local meal of maize, meat, rice plus local drink called chicha, based on maize but flavoured with fruit usually blackberry. Tastes a bit like cough medicine but drinkable. Got used to it over the last week and can now tolerate it well.
Coffee here is pre-made in small bottle on table and they bring either hot water or milk and you make your own- the best stuff is made from ground beans- the cheap places use Nescafe. Lots of cities here use moto-taxis - 3 wheel taxis with covered seat for passengers - like Asia - very cheap, but not allowed in centre centre.
Weather is hot in day, and strong Trade Wind at night from south which makes it cool-cold. Almost never rains on Peru west coast, maybe a drop in Jan-March but basically only 6mm precipitation from condensation. They depend on the water from the dozen or so rivers flowing from snow mtns. Incredible the crops they produce from the apparentñy barren soil. But apparently it is full of nutrients as everything grows - they channel water in drains for irrigation.
Spend next day (Frid) looking around checking itinerary, decide to go to Chiclayo where there are some good ruins and decide that inland trips are out as they take too much time in travel to and from, so will stick to coast. The entire coast is same as describerd above - dry arid apparently barren but anywhere near a river they form cities.
Took one wrong turn in Piura walks and ended up where i shouldn”t be - cops told me to get out and be careful so grabbed a mototaxi!!! But in fact no-one even looked like being a danger. Interesting fact that all the streets in Piura are spotless!! amazing - they have cleaners day and night sweeping. Most of the Peru cities I have since passed thru are the same - except Chimbote (more later).
Sat. depart for Chiclayo - a cop helps me get a moto-lineal - ordinary motor-bike taxi - to terminal. 3 hrs trip. Arrive and get hotel and orientate myself in city.
Sunday go to the famous Sipán ruins from 200-300 AD. They were - are - all from adobe blocks but now much eroded. Was a big city and has two pyramids which are not like Egypt but are more square and contain many burial chambers of important people and when they died most of their concubines, wives, servants were killed to accompany them to after-life. And always a beheaded llama for food. Externals of mounds are very eroded but the tombs are well preserved and show some original skeletons. Huge complex and need 1-2 hours to walk it. When one died the next one built his tomb on top of previous so the structures gradually grew bigger and wider and taller.
Mon went to the similar ruins at Túcume to north of Chiclayo. They are from about 1000AD and are of a huge city with citadels and temples and palaces and streets etc all from adobe, but heavily eroded. Amazing and well worth a visit. Back by lunch so depart for the next city - Trujillo where there are even more fantastic ruins. This city is a must for anyone coming to Perú and you must stay only at the Casa de Clara. (Taxi drivers hate her and tell you the place does not exist or whatever but insist and you will get there). Shared meals with the family if you wish -she is 50”s woman married to white-haired 50”s Englishman accountant. They run the hotel and do tours to anywhere where there are ruins - she is famous and has been at it for decades. Very passionate and knowledgeable. Lovely lady and great accomm.
So I took a full day tour with her to see Chan-Chán , the museum, and two temples (huacas). Chan-Chán is a giant city very well preserved walls of adobe covers 28 sq kms, about 15x2 kms, a complete comprehensive city. Lots of fotos. Look these places up on internet I am sure yo will find heaps. Huaca del arco-iris, huaca de la luna , huaca del sol. Extraordinary places and so much well preserved carvings in walls etc. Dates from about 1100-1400 AD.
Our friend Chantal has a sponsored child in Chimbote so I wanted to visit her if poss but the town is listed in the guide book as the most dangerous in Peru, so I ask Clara -the lady - if I should go and she says not without a local. But she knows a local who is a friend so she asks and he agrees to accompany me on bus and to help find the girl. 2 hr trip south to Chimbote - once the major fising port of Peru till Govt stupidity killed the indusrty in mid-70”s, plus they over-fished, and now lots of unemployment, hence crime. We arrive and try the electoral office but need mother or fathers first names. So decide to go to her barrio - suburb - even more dangerous supposedly - and try our luck. Ask lots of people and eventually get to parochical school but they look at the papers and realise she is child at a religious school several blocks away. We get there and they know the child but have to go thru tons of buracracy - ring Lima and ask, they say get the child and bring her to the school dont let us go tho the house!!?? so after much waiting we meet and she is a delight!!! hugged and kissed me and held me tight all the time. We secretly asked her address so when we left we went to the house and spent long time with mother but school-pricks kept the girl at the school so we couldnt talk to her more.. But we got fotos and now have exchanged addresses so we can all write without the burocrats interfering!! I bought some food for mother (rice, sugar, oil, oats). A really special day and there was absolutely no more danger than any other place I have been. It is dirt poor and dirty but the people are honest and helpful. Of course I would not go there at night.!!!.
So then taxi back to Chimbote (2 kms) to eat and get tickets for friend to return to Trujillo and me to Lima. Arrive midnight.
Lima is clean but heavily polluted with smog due to the funny climatic conditions here. Never see sun during winter, but it appears about Nov. meantime we have fog and night mist and smog all the time. At this stage not a city I would consider worth a visit by anyone. - except if you want the museums and stuff like that.!!
I suspect I have finished with hot weather. Am now far enough south to avoid the extreme heat and since there is cloud all the time temp stays low. Later i will be heading to the mtns for Cuzco and Machu Picchu which of course are cold.
Emough for this report. Hope it is of interest.
Love
Nobby'
Well I have a whole week of adventures to relate- it will take ages!!!
There was a demonstration by idigenous peoples in Cuenca while I was walking around so got some nice photos of trad dress.
Left at midnight arrived Loja 05.00 but ticket for first bus at 07.00 wait around. Girl talks to me and sits in front of me on bus. She is Ecuad with parents and her chile friend going to Lima. so we chat a fair bit. Very nice people. Raquel and Veronica.. Man and small boy sit next to me at half way and he chats, is a policeman and I record some of converstion. Heavy duty mtns non stop to border - up and down and twist and shout. Get to Macará¡ which is border and is super hot, and they grow rice.
Veronica”s dad has a "cousin" who is money changer so we hurry several blocks to the plaza where they operate and change some dollars.
The land from here on is flat dry dusty and arid like you wouln”t believe. But first to Ecuad-exit get stamp then walk across bridge to Peru immig and get stamp plus you must go to a second Peru office for another stamp - I almost missed that one!! Raquel saved me!
We arrive Piura, 50 kms inland from ocean, about 2.00pm. Veronica and family take taxi and insist I wait for him to return and not walk. OK.
Shower, walk streets, take laundry to shop, internet to mary. Local meal of maize, meat, rice plus local drink called chicha, based on maize but flavoured with fruit usually blackberry. Tastes a bit like cough medicine but drinkable. Got used to it over the last week and can now tolerate it well.
Coffee here is pre-made in small bottle on table and they bring either hot water or milk and you make your own- the best stuff is made from ground beans- the cheap places use Nescafe. Lots of cities here use moto-taxis - 3 wheel taxis with covered seat for passengers - like Asia - very cheap, but not allowed in centre centre.
Weather is hot in day, and strong Trade Wind at night from south which makes it cool-cold. Almost never rains on Peru west coast, maybe a drop in Jan-March but basically only 6mm precipitation from condensation. They depend on the water from the dozen or so rivers flowing from snow mtns. Incredible the crops they produce from the apparentñy barren soil. But apparently it is full of nutrients as everything grows - they channel water in drains for irrigation.
Spend next day (Frid) looking around checking itinerary, decide to go to Chiclayo where there are some good ruins and decide that inland trips are out as they take too much time in travel to and from, so will stick to coast. The entire coast is same as describerd above - dry arid apparently barren but anywhere near a river they form cities.
Took one wrong turn in Piura walks and ended up where i shouldn”t be - cops told me to get out and be careful so grabbed a mototaxi!!! But in fact no-one even looked like being a danger. Interesting fact that all the streets in Piura are spotless!! amazing - they have cleaners day and night sweeping. Most of the Peru cities I have since passed thru are the same - except Chimbote (more later).
Sat. depart for Chiclayo - a cop helps me get a moto-lineal - ordinary motor-bike taxi - to terminal. 3 hrs trip. Arrive and get hotel and orientate myself in city.
Sunday go to the famous Sipán ruins from 200-300 AD. They were - are - all from adobe blocks but now much eroded. Was a big city and has two pyramids which are not like Egypt but are more square and contain many burial chambers of important people and when they died most of their concubines, wives, servants were killed to accompany them to after-life. And always a beheaded llama for food. Externals of mounds are very eroded but the tombs are well preserved and show some original skeletons. Huge complex and need 1-2 hours to walk it. When one died the next one built his tomb on top of previous so the structures gradually grew bigger and wider and taller.
Mon went to the similar ruins at Túcume to north of Chiclayo. They are from about 1000AD and are of a huge city with citadels and temples and palaces and streets etc all from adobe, but heavily eroded. Amazing and well worth a visit. Back by lunch so depart for the next city - Trujillo where there are even more fantastic ruins. This city is a must for anyone coming to Perú and you must stay only at the Casa de Clara. (Taxi drivers hate her and tell you the place does not exist or whatever but insist and you will get there). Shared meals with the family if you wish -she is 50”s woman married to white-haired 50”s Englishman accountant. They run the hotel and do tours to anywhere where there are ruins - she is famous and has been at it for decades. Very passionate and knowledgeable. Lovely lady and great accomm.
So I took a full day tour with her to see Chan-Chán , the museum, and two temples (huacas). Chan-Chán is a giant city very well preserved walls of adobe covers 28 sq kms, about 15x2 kms, a complete comprehensive city. Lots of fotos. Look these places up on internet I am sure yo will find heaps. Huaca del arco-iris, huaca de la luna , huaca del sol. Extraordinary places and so much well preserved carvings in walls etc. Dates from about 1100-1400 AD.
Our friend Chantal has a sponsored child in Chimbote so I wanted to visit her if poss but the town is listed in the guide book as the most dangerous in Peru, so I ask Clara -the lady - if I should go and she says not without a local. But she knows a local who is a friend so she asks and he agrees to accompany me on bus and to help find the girl. 2 hr trip south to Chimbote - once the major fising port of Peru till Govt stupidity killed the indusrty in mid-70”s, plus they over-fished, and now lots of unemployment, hence crime. We arrive and try the electoral office but need mother or fathers first names. So decide to go to her barrio - suburb - even more dangerous supposedly - and try our luck. Ask lots of people and eventually get to parochical school but they look at the papers and realise she is child at a religious school several blocks away. We get there and they know the child but have to go thru tons of buracracy - ring Lima and ask, they say get the child and bring her to the school dont let us go tho the house!!?? so after much waiting we meet and she is a delight!!! hugged and kissed me and held me tight all the time. We secretly asked her address so when we left we went to the house and spent long time with mother but school-pricks kept the girl at the school so we couldnt talk to her more.. But we got fotos and now have exchanged addresses so we can all write without the burocrats interfering!! I bought some food for mother (rice, sugar, oil, oats). A really special day and there was absolutely no more danger than any other place I have been. It is dirt poor and dirty but the people are honest and helpful. Of course I would not go there at night.!!!.
So then taxi back to Chimbote (2 kms) to eat and get tickets for friend to return to Trujillo and me to Lima. Arrive midnight.
Lima is clean but heavily polluted with smog due to the funny climatic conditions here. Never see sun during winter, but it appears about Nov. meantime we have fog and night mist and smog all the time. At this stage not a city I would consider worth a visit by anyone. - except if you want the museums and stuff like that.!!
I suspect I have finished with hot weather. Am now far enough south to avoid the extreme heat and since there is cloud all the time temp stays low. Later i will be heading to the mtns for Cuzco and Machu Picchu which of course are cold.
Emough for this report. Hope it is of interest.
Love
Nobby'
Answers to questions
Answer to comment from John
Hi John,
Thanks for comments. I drink only bottled water - buy it in 1.5 to 5 lt bottles and transfer that to two smaller bottles. but I wash face and teeth in tap water but avoid swallowing any. Do not rinse mouth after teeth clean. (The caps button on this machine only works if you hit it 3 times!!)
No the only people who try to use English are the ones who think they can speak it and they are few. But my spanish is good enough for them not to to even bother with another language. I am having trouble here in Perú with the working class Spanish - I simply cannot understand them; they are worse than aussie labourers!!
The info on OOo is valuable but most peple don''t know about it or are too afraid to use. Happy to have link from your page.
Hi John,
Thanks for comments. I drink only bottled water - buy it in 1.5 to 5 lt bottles and transfer that to two smaller bottles. but I wash face and teeth in tap water but avoid swallowing any. Do not rinse mouth after teeth clean. (The caps button on this machine only works if you hit it 3 times!!)
No the only people who try to use English are the ones who think they can speak it and they are few. But my spanish is good enough for them not to to even bother with another language. I am having trouble here in Perú with the working class Spanish - I simply cannot understand them; they are worse than aussie labourers!!
The info on OOo is valuable but most peple don''t know about it or are too afraid to use. Happy to have link from your page.
Sunday, August 20, 2006
Questions from a friend
?What water do you drink, potable solamente? Do people try to switch to English when they find out that's what you speak? I found that is a pain when one is trying to speak "their" language. A couple of weeks ago I saw your new OpenSource Web page with great screen captures of OOo, The GIMP etc. I put another link, this time directly to that page. I trust that’s OK with you. That’s all for now Nobby. I will check back here every now and then. John D’Alton
Wednesday, August 16, 2006
Report # 12
Well, it is now Sunday arvo in sunny Quito at 2850 mts - that is about 9500 ft. (Bogota was 8500, not 8000 that I said). Travelled all night on Thurs to arrive at border town arrived 0500. met a very poor Peruviam man who is a car parking guy who had sat all night in terminal as had no money for hotel just his fare to Quito. We chatted and I gave him some choc and lent him $5 not expecting to see it again(!!). Got colective taxi 2 kms to Ecuador town went thru Immigartion - at least i did; they suspected him of going in to work so detained him for a while. I left and agreed to wait 1 hr at terminal. He didnt make it poor guy. So I came on alone. They have buses every 30-60 mins for Quito about 250-300 km, cost $4.50 (!!). Ecuador is incrediblky cheap despite the use of US dollar. - it used to be even cheaper!. The scenery in Colombia was all hilly - no, mountainous - and green and lush and wet. I didnt see the last 300 km as was night but it was twisty. However from the border on the land is dry dry dry and arid and totally treeless. Very mountainous and twisty road and temp varies as you go up and down over ranges. and Quito is squashed in between big hills on both sides so is long and narrow nth to sth. Has volcano to the west which erupted 6-8 yrs ago. Very hilly city and dry and dusty.
By the way have to relate my first bad news - the street kids beat me today - got my camera from its pouch on my belt in front while they jostled me. Group of 5-6 kids 6-10 yrs old pretending to sell something. Did it all within 5 mts of walking!! I cornered 4 of them immediately and frisked them but they were clean and said it was another kid. Got a police report for insurance but have lost the fotos of the last week - maybe 50-60 , basically Colombia. Will try to get new camera here before i leave.
To other travellers - if the kids are touching you physically at all then they are stealing - especially if there is more than one kid and they are actually pushing the products against you. Grab all your pouches/valuables and kick the kids away - do it immediately - do not be hesitant nor wishy-washy.
Back to the story. I chose a cheap hotel from the book and luckily it is near the terminal and in the Old City which is UN heritage and very pretty. The new city so called is to the north - all one continuous thing of course, and is the tourist area, called Mariscal, where all the cafes have English names and all the USA tourists go - also where I got done today!!
Have lost contact with the Dutch couple but may meet again as they are heading same direction.
So arrived late Friday - completely beat after some 20 hrs on the go. Rested, went and ate, home and relaxed before early night and slept 9 hrs in a real bed not hard 1-inch mattresses as has been for last few weeks.
Sat was up and looking for b/fast shops and laundry. Found dozens of cafes - "greasy-spoons" in Aussie - where b/fast lunch/dinner(tea) all cost only $1 - can you believe it!! In Mariscal they cost $2.50-$4. Spent long time looking for laundry but all closed for weekend. By the way would you believe the Friday was Independence Day so most shops were closed!!! Happens every time! Arranged to meet a friend of Jenny K in arvo - in Mariscal, as no parking in old part of town. So went to Mariscal and found all the laundries and met Joanne - lovely Uk lady married to local with 3 kids - all well behaved and spoken and bilingual. Joanne speaks lovely standard English but is not fully bilingual in Spanish. She reminds me of Geraldine a bit - few yrs younger. She may get some contacts for me for later - would be good as it would be lovely to stay with some genuine locals.
Home late arvo and did some PC work getting a selection of fotos onto the PC here and tehn tried to email to Mary but desperastely slow. However today I sent them all via Messenger (much quicker!!) so hopefullly they will all go on blog page soon.
So today, Sunday, went to Mariscal to leave laundry and then wanted to go the the equator which is 23 kms north of Quito. Had to get 2 buses and total of 1 hr to get there. It is a big complex with museum , planetaruim, etc and monument on spot. Got my foto taken but guess where that is now!! The bus catching is somewhat scary - the buses have 4-6 names on front but hey are suburbs I have no idea about and often weird native names. So it is scary not knowing which to catch nor where to get off. But a kindly and pretty lady trafico officer got me on the right first bus and told driver what I needed so he told me where to get off and how to get next one. All done sucessfully - except for camera. Spent an hour getting to police and making report. They told me there is a mini mafia of kids run by adults and almost impossible to catch - kids steal and pass to someone else maybe an adult and then they are clean. as was the case today.
My plan now is to get new camera if available and then head south towards Peru. May stop to view some of the many volcanos- there is one near Baños which is currently erupting and all the tourists are visiting it. Will check it out. Quito has its own volcano visible to the west which erupted about 6-8 yrs ago.
Have been at PC for nearly 3 hrs so will leave this for now and amend or add later with comparisons and more comments about Quito.
Cheers to all.
Nobby
By the way have to relate my first bad news - the street kids beat me today - got my camera from its pouch on my belt in front while they jostled me. Group of 5-6 kids 6-10 yrs old pretending to sell something. Did it all within 5 mts of walking!! I cornered 4 of them immediately and frisked them but they were clean and said it was another kid. Got a police report for insurance but have lost the fotos of the last week - maybe 50-60 , basically Colombia. Will try to get new camera here before i leave.
To other travellers - if the kids are touching you physically at all then they are stealing - especially if there is more than one kid and they are actually pushing the products against you. Grab all your pouches/valuables and kick the kids away - do it immediately - do not be hesitant nor wishy-washy.
Back to the story. I chose a cheap hotel from the book and luckily it is near the terminal and in the Old City which is UN heritage and very pretty. The new city so called is to the north - all one continuous thing of course, and is the tourist area, called Mariscal, where all the cafes have English names and all the USA tourists go - also where I got done today!!
Have lost contact with the Dutch couple but may meet again as they are heading same direction.
So arrived late Friday - completely beat after some 20 hrs on the go. Rested, went and ate, home and relaxed before early night and slept 9 hrs in a real bed not hard 1-inch mattresses as has been for last few weeks.
Sat was up and looking for b/fast shops and laundry. Found dozens of cafes - "greasy-spoons" in Aussie - where b/fast lunch/dinner(tea) all cost only $1 - can you believe it!! In Mariscal they cost $2.50-$4. Spent long time looking for laundry but all closed for weekend. By the way would you believe the Friday was Independence Day so most shops were closed!!! Happens every time! Arranged to meet a friend of Jenny K in arvo - in Mariscal, as no parking in old part of town. So went to Mariscal and found all the laundries and met Joanne - lovely Uk lady married to local with 3 kids - all well behaved and spoken and bilingual. Joanne speaks lovely standard English but is not fully bilingual in Spanish. She reminds me of Geraldine a bit - few yrs younger. She may get some contacts for me for later - would be good as it would be lovely to stay with some genuine locals.
Home late arvo and did some PC work getting a selection of fotos onto the PC here and tehn tried to email to Mary but desperastely slow. However today I sent them all via Messenger (much quicker!!) so hopefullly they will all go on blog page soon.
So today, Sunday, went to Mariscal to leave laundry and then wanted to go the the equator which is 23 kms north of Quito. Had to get 2 buses and total of 1 hr to get there. It is a big complex with museum , planetaruim, etc and monument on spot. Got my foto taken but guess where that is now!! The bus catching is somewhat scary - the buses have 4-6 names on front but hey are suburbs I have no idea about and often weird native names. So it is scary not knowing which to catch nor where to get off. But a kindly and pretty lady trafico officer got me on the right first bus and told driver what I needed so he told me where to get off and how to get next one. All done sucessfully - except for camera. Spent an hour getting to police and making report. They told me there is a mini mafia of kids run by adults and almost impossible to catch - kids steal and pass to someone else maybe an adult and then they are clean. as was the case today.
My plan now is to get new camera if available and then head south towards Peru. May stop to view some of the many volcanos- there is one near Baños which is currently erupting and all the tourists are visiting it. Will check it out. Quito has its own volcano visible to the west which erupted about 6-8 yrs ago.
Have been at PC for nearly 3 hrs so will leave this for now and amend or add later with comparisons and more comments about Quito.
Cheers to all.
Nobby
Sunday, August 13, 2006
Report # 11
Well, it is now Sunday arvo in sunny Quito at 2850 mts - that is about 9500 ft. (Bogota was 8500, not 8000 that I said). Travelled all night on Thurs to arrive at border town arrived 0500. met a very poor Peruviam man who is a car parking guy who had sat all night in terminal as had no money for hotel just his fare to Quito. We chatted and I gave him some choc and lent him $5 not expecting to see it again(!!). Got colective taxi 2 kms to Ecuador town went thru Immigartion - at least i did; they suspected him of going in to work so detained him for a while. I left and agreed to wait 1 hr at terminal. He didnt make it poor guy. So I came on alone. They have buses every 30-60 mins for Quito about 250-300 km, cost $4.50 (!!). Ecuador is incrediblky cheap despite the use of US dollar. - it used to be even cheaper!. The scenery in Colombia was all hilly - no, mountainous - and green and lush and wet. I didnt see the last 300 km as was night but it was twisty. However from the border on the land is dry dry dry and arid and totally treeless. Very mountainous and twisty road and temp varies as you go up and down over ranges. and Quito is squashed in between big hills on both sides so is long and narrow nth to sth. Has volcano to the west which erupted 6-8 yrs ago. Very hilly city and dry and dusty.
By the way have to relate my first bad news - the street kids beat me today - got my camera from its pouch on my belt in front while they jostled me. Group of 5-6 kids 6-10 yrs old pretending to sell something. Did it all within 5 mts of walking!! I cornered 4 of them immediately and frisked them but they were clean and said it was another kid. Got a police report for insurance but have lost the fotos of the last week - maybe 50-60 , basically Colombia. Will try to get new camera here before i leave.
To other travellers - if the kids are touching you physically at all then they are stealing - especially if there is more than one kid and they are actually pushing the products against you. Grab all your pouches/valuables and kick the kids away - do it immediately - do not be hesitant nor wishy-washy.
Back to the story. I chose a cheap hotel from the book and luckily it is near the terminal and in the Old City which is UN heritage and very pretty. The new city so called is to the north - all one continuous thing of course, and is the tourist area, called Mariscal, where all the cafes have English names and all the USA tourists go - also where I got done today!!
Have lost contact with the Dutch couple but may meet again as they are heading same direction.
So arrived late Friday - completely beat after some 20 hrs on the go. Rested, went and ate, home and relaxed before early night and slept 9 hrs in a real bed not hard 1-inch mattresses as has been for last few weeks.
Sat was up and looking for b/fast shops and laundry. Found dozens of cafes - "greasy-spoons" in Aussie - where b/fast lunch/dinner(tea) all cost only $1 - can you believe it!! In Mariscal they cost $2.50-$4. Spent long time looking for laundry but all closed for weekend. By the way would you believe the Friday was Independence Day so most shops were closed!!! Happens every time! Arranged to meet a friend of Jenny K in arvo - in Mariscal, as no parking in old part of town. So went to Mariscal and found all the laundries and met Joanne - lovely Uk lady married to local with 3 kids - all well behaved and spoken and bilingual. Joanne speaks lovely standard English but is not fully bilingual in Spanish. She reminds me of Geraldine a bit - few yrs younger. She may get some contacts for me for later - would be good as it would be lovely to stay with some genuine locals.
Home late arvo and did some PC work getting a selection of fotos onto the PC here and tehn tried to email to Mary but desperastely slow. However today I sent them all via Messenger (much quicker!!) so hopefullly they will all go on blog page soon.
So today, Sunday, went to Mariscal to leave laundry and then wanted to go the the equator which is 23 kms north of Quito. Had to get 2 buses and total of 1 hr to get there. It is a big complex with museum , planetaruim, etc and monument on spot. Got my foto taken but guess where that is now!! The bus catching is somewhat scary - the buses have 4-6 names on front but hey are suburbs I have no idea about and often weird native names. So it is scary not knowing which to catch nor where to get off. But a kindly and pretty lady trafico officer got me on the right first bus and told driver what I needed so he told me where to get off and how to get next one. All done sucessfully - except for camera. Spent an hour getting to police and making report. They told me there is a mini mafia of kids run by adults and almost impossible to catch - kids steal and pass to someone else maybe an adult and then they are clean. as was the case today.
My plan now is to get new camera if available and then head south towards Peru. May stop to view some of the many volcanos- there is one near Baños which is currently erupting and all the tourists are visiting it. Will check it out. Quito has its own volcano visible to the west which erupted about 6-8 yrs ago.
Have been at PC for nearly 3 hrs so will leave this for now and amend or add later with comparisons and more comments about Quito.
Cheers to all.
Nobby
By the way have to relate my first bad news - the street kids beat me today - got my camera from its pouch on my belt in front while they jostled me. Group of 5-6 kids 6-10 yrs old pretending to sell something. Did it all within 5 mts of walking!! I cornered 4 of them immediately and frisked them but they were clean and said it was another kid. Got a police report for insurance but have lost the fotos of the last week - maybe 50-60 , basically Colombia. Will try to get new camera here before i leave.
To other travellers - if the kids are touching you physically at all then they are stealing - especially if there is more than one kid and they are actually pushing the products against you. Grab all your pouches/valuables and kick the kids away - do it immediately - do not be hesitant nor wishy-washy.
Back to the story. I chose a cheap hotel from the book and luckily it is near the terminal and in the Old City which is UN heritage and very pretty. The new city so called is to the north - all one continuous thing of course, and is the tourist area, called Mariscal, where all the cafes have English names and all the USA tourists go - also where I got done today!!
Have lost contact with the Dutch couple but may meet again as they are heading same direction.
So arrived late Friday - completely beat after some 20 hrs on the go. Rested, went and ate, home and relaxed before early night and slept 9 hrs in a real bed not hard 1-inch mattresses as has been for last few weeks.
Sat was up and looking for b/fast shops and laundry. Found dozens of cafes - "greasy-spoons" in Aussie - where b/fast lunch/dinner(tea) all cost only $1 - can you believe it!! In Mariscal they cost $2.50-$4. Spent long time looking for laundry but all closed for weekend. By the way would you believe the Friday was Independence Day so most shops were closed!!! Happens every time! Arranged to meet a friend of Jenny K in arvo - in Mariscal, as no parking in old part of town. So went to Mariscal and found all the laundries and met Joanne - lovely Uk lady married to local with 3 kids - all well behaved and spoken and bilingual. Joanne speaks lovely standard English but is not fully bilingual in Spanish. She reminds me of Geraldine a bit - few yrs younger. She may get some contacts for me for later - would be good as it would be lovely to stay with some genuine locals.
Home late arvo and did some PC work getting a selection of fotos onto the PC here and tehn tried to email to Mary but desperastely slow. However today I sent them all via Messenger (much quicker!!) so hopefullly they will all go on blog page soon.
So today, Sunday, went to Mariscal to leave laundry and then wanted to go the the equator which is 23 kms north of Quito. Had to get 2 buses and total of 1 hr to get there. It is a big complex with museum , planetaruim, etc and monument on spot. Got my foto taken but guess where that is now!! The bus catching is somewhat scary - the buses have 4-6 names on front but hey are suburbs I have no idea about and often weird native names. So it is scary not knowing which to catch nor where to get off. But a kindly and pretty lady trafico officer got me on the right first bus and told driver what I needed so he told me where to get off and how to get next one. All done sucessfully - except for camera. Spent an hour getting to police and making report. They told me there is a mini mafia of kids run by adults and almost impossible to catch - kids steal and pass to someone else maybe an adult and then they are clean. as was the case today.
My plan now is to get new camera if available and then head south towards Peru. May stop to view some of the many volcanos- there is one near Baños which is currently erupting and all the tourists are visiting it. Will check it out. Quito has its own volcano visible to the west which erupted about 6-8 yrs ago.
Have been at PC for nearly 3 hrs so will leave this for now and amend or add later with comparisons and more comments about Quito.
Cheers to all.
Nobby
Thursday, August 10, 2006
Report # 10
Hi Folks,
Greetings from south Colombia - on my way to Ecuador.
I left you in Bogotá last Sunday I think. I was in a hostal with a great mixture of characters, USA, Dutch, Norway, Colombia, Israel, an Aussie girl from Coorparoo (near us in Bris) - hi Maria - Thee were several pot smokers, the smell was around all the time. Great owners who spoke English. Very hospitable.
A short geog lesson for you all: Col is roughly a square but pushed a bit out of shape - push left side up - to be a parallelogram, with Panama joined to middle of left side. The entire eastern side of Col - one third or one half is jungle or Amazon headwaters. so little population and no roads. I entered to Leticia in bottom right, and flew to Bog which is about dead centre. I overflew the equator so am now in nth henisphere. But i could not see equator from the high altitude!!
The Andes mts run nth to sth close to coast but they are in roughly 3 parallel ranges with Bog in the far inland one. There are major roads and rivers running N-S between the ranges; the Pan-Amer h-way is in the valley closest to coast.
Temp here is governed almost entirely by altitude as the seasons are almost identical except perhaps fro rain. Bog was 2600 mts which I thought was same as ACT, till I realised that Canberra is in feet and Bog is in mts = 8000ft - higher than Kosiosko. Altitude has not affected me. So Bog was very warm days but very cool-cold nights.
I went to the once a week Sunday market near my hostal which sells everything imaginable mostly used but some new. Old magazines from 1970, old PC motherboards, record players for old LPs, used radios, watches, tape recorders, typewriters(!), clothes, shoes etc. I got a new watch "Swatch" for $2 as the band on my other one broke.
Monday I walked the streets but it was raining a fair bit on and off, also the President was being inaugurated for his second term so many streets were barricaded off. There are unknown number of police groups in Bog - MP ( not what we mean), Council , Traffic, Tourist, Ecology, Bogmet, Lofar (??) and others all with diff uniforms so at any time there are heaps of groups of police standing in groupds talking or walkin. Lots of street beggars and those who have to sleep on street - they all seem to have a dog , probably for protection and warmth at night. Garbage colect is like Brazil - put out all the plastic bags on corners or light poles and beggars scavange it then army of workers comes around an collects it all. Also there are army of sweepers going round all the time sweeping the footpaths dtuff into gutters and then collectors come round and sweept that up and collect it. Overall impression is much cleaner and tidier than brazil and buildings are neater and not so dillapidated. People are quieter but friendly and of course dressed more for warmth that in Brazil.
On Monday met a guy from San Agustin who said we should go there - he is well educated and travelled, speaks English, Hebrew, some German, has dreadlocks to his waist looks hippy, into shamanism, has degree i think in Agro-ecology. Has cabins in San Agustin with no elect or gas for cheap rent - $2 pp. Says that night buses to SanA are best and no danger from rebels - no trouble in 20 yrs. So a Dutch couple and I booked tickets for Tues night, about 8 hrs trip for 400 approx kms.
(Sherry I decided that it was a waste of time to simply stay in Bog - tks for help and advice , enjoy your stay. It is now Thurs and you are arriving in Bog.!!!!!)
So Tuesday I just walked around and got ready, rain was a dampener. But rain here seems to be mainly in early morn. We travelled down the highway to Pitalito - between the 2-3 ranges. Then got a colectivo to go 40 kms east to San-A in the hills. They are twin-cab pick-ups with a cover and seats in back. So 8-10 people squeeze in and pile luggage on roof rack - $2 fare. San-A is a village of 5000 in midst of dozens of sites of ancient stone carvings - try this site
http://www.viajeros.com/diario-1009.html
for some pictures. They date from 3300 BC (!!!) and are believed to be from 3 diff societies and are just amazing. Nobody knows anything about the groups but the experts have drawn lots of info from the stones. They vary in height fom 1-2 mts. We met a guy who rents horses and is a guide so we accepted (the two Dutch and I) - $2 each the horse, and $8 for him for guide. The two had never been on horse before but showed no fear. We rode for 3 hrs less stops at the 4 sites we visited. After 30-45 mins I let the horse canter (guide stayed at rear all the time, so i took lead) and from then on we galloped an many stretches. Fabulous fun!!! The horses are mtn ponies about size of burro, and they walk with a ver fast dancing step - not uncomfortable really but certainly diff. So we visited these sites and he explained details. One has colours on the stone from local trees and he showed us the trees and put some dye on his skin - very bright and obvious. But after 50-80 statues it gets a bit monotonus. He dropped us at local parque museum and we walked a couple of kms. Legs were sore at end of ride but not today. Also had sugar cane wine during ride. They crush cane for juice boil till clear then leave for a week to ferment. Ends up colour of orange and sweet but slight wine taste. Guide was very complimentary about my riding - said with one week of practice i could get a job working with horses here and be a vaquero. (Thank You).
I stayed at cabin next to where the dutch couple stayed but this was with a family. They live in one room and have two rooms above for rent. The showers is cold water with no curtain so i showered with her helping husband fix motor bike 5 mts away in full view!! Cost was $2.50 for night! We booked ticket to leave San-A the next morn at 5.30 am and came by 20-seat bus 120 kms on dirt road 4 mts wide - when bus comes other way one stops. Took 5.5 hrs, basically we had to cross the middle range of mtns into the next big valley where the Pan-Am h-way is. But htat meant non-stop switchback twist and turn up and down thru valleys and over mtns every mt of the way. At one point we were averaging 15 kms per hr. Came to one sort-of plateau that was still very hilly but much less mountainous than the rest, where all the people outside were wearing beanies - head-gear - woolen sweaters and boots and there was a verrrry strong weind blowing. So I assume we were in very high parts. Eventually we desscended down to the town of Popayán from where we get bus to Ecuador. I am leaving tonite at 10 for 7 hr trip of 370 kms to Ipiales the last town before border and from there get 5 hr bus to Quito. So am now definitely in tropics but temp depends on altitude. This town is very warm almost hot even tho it is 2500 mts. We have to cross another range of mtns before we get to border. But paved road all the way this time.
Okay enough for now.
Bye, hugs, Nobby
Greetings from south Colombia - on my way to Ecuador.
I left you in Bogotá last Sunday I think. I was in a hostal with a great mixture of characters, USA, Dutch, Norway, Colombia, Israel, an Aussie girl from Coorparoo (near us in Bris) - hi Maria - Thee were several pot smokers, the smell was around all the time. Great owners who spoke English. Very hospitable.
A short geog lesson for you all: Col is roughly a square but pushed a bit out of shape - push left side up - to be a parallelogram, with Panama joined to middle of left side. The entire eastern side of Col - one third or one half is jungle or Amazon headwaters. so little population and no roads. I entered to Leticia in bottom right, and flew to Bog which is about dead centre. I overflew the equator so am now in nth henisphere. But i could not see equator from the high altitude!!
The Andes mts run nth to sth close to coast but they are in roughly 3 parallel ranges with Bog in the far inland one. There are major roads and rivers running N-S between the ranges; the Pan-Amer h-way is in the valley closest to coast.
Temp here is governed almost entirely by altitude as the seasons are almost identical except perhaps fro rain. Bog was 2600 mts which I thought was same as ACT, till I realised that Canberra is in feet and Bog is in mts = 8000ft - higher than Kosiosko. Altitude has not affected me. So Bog was very warm days but very cool-cold nights.
I went to the once a week Sunday market near my hostal which sells everything imaginable mostly used but some new. Old magazines from 1970, old PC motherboards, record players for old LPs, used radios, watches, tape recorders, typewriters(!), clothes, shoes etc. I got a new watch "Swatch" for $2 as the band on my other one broke.
Monday I walked the streets but it was raining a fair bit on and off, also the President was being inaugurated for his second term so many streets were barricaded off. There are unknown number of police groups in Bog - MP ( not what we mean), Council , Traffic, Tourist, Ecology, Bogmet, Lofar (??) and others all with diff uniforms so at any time there are heaps of groups of police standing in groupds talking or walkin. Lots of street beggars and those who have to sleep on street - they all seem to have a dog , probably for protection and warmth at night. Garbage colect is like Brazil - put out all the plastic bags on corners or light poles and beggars scavange it then army of workers comes around an collects it all. Also there are army of sweepers going round all the time sweeping the footpaths dtuff into gutters and then collectors come round and sweept that up and collect it. Overall impression is much cleaner and tidier than brazil and buildings are neater and not so dillapidated. People are quieter but friendly and of course dressed more for warmth that in Brazil.
On Monday met a guy from San Agustin who said we should go there - he is well educated and travelled, speaks English, Hebrew, some German, has dreadlocks to his waist looks hippy, into shamanism, has degree i think in Agro-ecology. Has cabins in San Agustin with no elect or gas for cheap rent - $2 pp. Says that night buses to SanA are best and no danger from rebels - no trouble in 20 yrs. So a Dutch couple and I booked tickets for Tues night, about 8 hrs trip for 400 approx kms.
(Sherry I decided that it was a waste of time to simply stay in Bog - tks for help and advice , enjoy your stay. It is now Thurs and you are arriving in Bog.!!!!!)
So Tuesday I just walked around and got ready, rain was a dampener. But rain here seems to be mainly in early morn. We travelled down the highway to Pitalito - between the 2-3 ranges. Then got a colectivo to go 40 kms east to San-A in the hills. They are twin-cab pick-ups with a cover and seats in back. So 8-10 people squeeze in and pile luggage on roof rack - $2 fare. San-A is a village of 5000 in midst of dozens of sites of ancient stone carvings - try this site
http://www.viajeros.com/diario-1009.html
for some pictures. They date from 3300 BC (!!!) and are believed to be from 3 diff societies and are just amazing. Nobody knows anything about the groups but the experts have drawn lots of info from the stones. They vary in height fom 1-2 mts. We met a guy who rents horses and is a guide so we accepted (the two Dutch and I) - $2 each the horse, and $8 for him for guide. The two had never been on horse before but showed no fear. We rode for 3 hrs less stops at the 4 sites we visited. After 30-45 mins I let the horse canter (guide stayed at rear all the time, so i took lead) and from then on we galloped an many stretches. Fabulous fun!!! The horses are mtn ponies about size of burro, and they walk with a ver fast dancing step - not uncomfortable really but certainly diff. So we visited these sites and he explained details. One has colours on the stone from local trees and he showed us the trees and put some dye on his skin - very bright and obvious. But after 50-80 statues it gets a bit monotonus. He dropped us at local parque museum and we walked a couple of kms. Legs were sore at end of ride but not today. Also had sugar cane wine during ride. They crush cane for juice boil till clear then leave for a week to ferment. Ends up colour of orange and sweet but slight wine taste. Guide was very complimentary about my riding - said with one week of practice i could get a job working with horses here and be a vaquero. (Thank You).
I stayed at cabin next to where the dutch couple stayed but this was with a family. They live in one room and have two rooms above for rent. The showers is cold water with no curtain so i showered with her helping husband fix motor bike 5 mts away in full view!! Cost was $2.50 for night! We booked ticket to leave San-A the next morn at 5.30 am and came by 20-seat bus 120 kms on dirt road 4 mts wide - when bus comes other way one stops. Took 5.5 hrs, basically we had to cross the middle range of mtns into the next big valley where the Pan-Am h-way is. But htat meant non-stop switchback twist and turn up and down thru valleys and over mtns every mt of the way. At one point we were averaging 15 kms per hr. Came to one sort-of plateau that was still very hilly but much less mountainous than the rest, where all the people outside were wearing beanies - head-gear - woolen sweaters and boots and there was a verrrry strong weind blowing. So I assume we were in very high parts. Eventually we desscended down to the town of Popayán from where we get bus to Ecuador. I am leaving tonite at 10 for 7 hr trip of 370 kms to Ipiales the last town before border and from there get 5 hr bus to Quito. So am now definitely in tropics but temp depends on altitude. This town is very warm almost hot even tho it is 2500 mts. We have to cross another range of mtns before we get to border. But paved road all the way this time.
Okay enough for now.
Bye, hugs, Nobby
Sunday, August 6, 2006
Report # 9
Howdy to all from Colombia, Sunday, midday 6th Aug
I wrote and an hours report this morning but it somehow disappeared into cyberspace, so am trying again. Also I have tried to send three other emails from this server but am getting failure notices so may have to send this from Yahoo later.
I left you last time in Belem - Sunday, a week ago - so to continue - Monday I went walking after looking at yellow pages for travel agents and eventually found one but a lot of walking. they had a seat to Manaus for Wed for $140 or so so I took it but in Brazil nobidy acepts foreign credit cards, so I walked to the nearest ATM but it doestnt like foreigners too, so bus to town then try 4 ATMs before one talks to me inluding several technical rejections. Bus back to agent, get ticket and home just after lunch. rested for rest of day.
Tuesday into town to try a tour of river; nothing suits so try the local ferry service and they hace a ferry going up river for 1.5 hrs and then back $2 each way. so I take it. Fascinating - all the locals carrying stuff to their island places or whatever all black/dark skinned. Altho the river is 320 kmz wide here it has 1000 islands in between - the big one I told you about and many others some of considerable size - 10-15kms - so from the shore yo can only see about 8-10 kms of water. very deep. We head upriver between some islands lots of shanty house along the bans where very poor people live ekeing out existence from fruit and hunting or maybe a couple of cattle. I found it amazing and interesting. Only stopped at three places - in last 20 mins - and unloaded frieght, then back via a diff route in a very narrow channel. Another pro offered her wares to me on the returrn trip but fat and ugly so I said no. The waterways are quite laberynthine so only locals could navigate there I am sure..Home late arvo then prepare for tomorrows departure.
Up early Wed and get to airport by bus - I find it very easy to get buses to and from the airports and bus terminals; saves $20 per trip - easy to get tickeded and able to relax in air comfort of airport for a couple of hours. Sat next to a 15yo girl, Roberta, who was talkative (and clever as she spoke very slowly and distinctly). Became good friends. After lamding, her mum was not there so I helped her with bags etc and we chatted till mum arrived - by bus!! Mum was suspicious of me I think but I left. But they called me back as they were going on bus too, so we waited together, then her estranged dad arrived and mum sent her (reluctantly) with dad but mum - Joselia - dtayed with me. She took me to town and showed me the hotel and ensured I was safe and installed. Meantime she had relaxed and gave me her address and details and she is a lolly seller in a poor barrio (!!). I spend entire afternoon looking for agents to get tickets for exit plus tickets for a jungle tour; cannot find Venez consulate. So decide to ignore Venez and try Colombia. They can get me a ticket for Sat to the far west of Amazon called Tabatinga (Brazil) plus a two day tour for Thurs Frid. Once again the hassle of getting an ATM but this city centre is smaller but still much walking. Eventually get all arranged. Don´t know if I can exit Tabatinga.
Decide that if I am to see Joselia adn family It is that night, so take the bus she told me and travel for 35 mins and dont know where to exit , ask busman and he says wait. We get to the terminal for that line the very edge of city I think, and he says to walk two blocks. I do and find the plaza and with soime seaaarching find Joselia. She and Roberta are astonished!! she has a fixed stand 2x1 mts roofed with electricity sells sweets, drinks and makes simple food like fried banana crisps and empanadas. I spend enjoyable 2 hours with them and thier friends - all accept me - an oddity I suspect but all restful and friendly. The whole town is in the streets (30C, 98%) and school is on one side of strteet and soccer field of sand on other. They warn me to be careful going to bus stop - which is hard to find - but people I meet treat me well and help happily and absolutely no problems. Amazing and unique experience. Schools here run 3 sessions a day to accomodate the numbers thats why school was on at 9 at night.Home very late more walking to get to hotel.
Next day early start for tour. They take us - 4 Spanish, 2 young/cocky Belgians - in car to meeting of waters where we cross to south bank via small motor boat. Manaus is on north side of two rivers whhich meet 15 kms east of city - rivers flow west to east of course - imagine a Y lying on its side >-- sort of - so we go in a kombi van for an hour into jungle travel thru wetlands most of time road is raised about 2-3 mts. Lots of farm houses with cattle and some crops. Then in a long canoe with 40hp outboard for another hour to get to cabins where we stay. Also get two Venez guys added. We swin in mighty Amazon - or a tributary- for an hour or two and have fish lunch the fish is called piraucã and the one we saw was 2 mts long , can you imagine!! we only saw the fillet which was as tall as the boy holding it. Then after lunch to spot monkeys motor for an hour row 30 mins but the 4 Span and 2 Belg talk sing shout whole time so no animals seen but the trip was amazing as I find it impossible to tell where the main stream goes there are so many backwaters and tributaries the water is about 2 mts below max and the marks are easily visible on trees and banks. Some parts are 20 mts deep and otheres only 8-10 mts . The river will drop another 10 mts before next big wet so many parts will be dry. Incredible to see these giant tress growing in the water. I loved the trip.
Home to fish for piranha - I caught the first and the largest, got 5, but Emilio got 8, We ate thjem next day in a soup!! They are only tiny fish about 6-8 cms high, 12-15 cms long and 2 cms wide , oval shape. Teeth are sharp and jaws are very strong - cannot remove stick from mouth once they bite it. We caught these fish in same spot where we swim!!! they only attack if you have fresh blood wound. Then alligator spotting after dinner called caimans here they grow to 3 mts but that takes 30-50 yrs. We caught one about 2-3ft. More swim after dinner had some caiperinhas - rum based drink good to get drunk on!!. Tipsy to bed.
Up at 5.30 for bird watching and sunrise saw 100s of canaries and lots of other birds and heard more. After b/fast we went for jungle hike supposed to seee monkeys and lots more. But the talkers are more noisy than ever so no chance but we see a tarantula and a 6 ft green snake which I almost trod on. non poisonous but aggressive and throws entire body when strikes so guide was worried. It was ready to attack me but I got good photo. Walked non stop for 2.25 hrs Lumch and more swim, then depart for town. Get hotel again and prepare for depart from Brazil next morn.
Got to Tabatinga easy shared taxi with two others to Brazil immigration and get exit. Then we take motor bike taxi to the Colombian town of Leticia. Imagine me with big mochila on back and holding little day pack and we are on a bike!! quick cheap and easy. Get to airport and have to get to town again to accept credit card then back again to airport and they have plane leaving in 3 hrs for Bogota. So arrive in Bog and take minibus to city and find hotel next to the one Sherry recommended - it is full as there is a convention on in town.
So I am in Spanish country again and it almost feels like my home tongue after the portuguese.
Must away, hope this gets to you all.
Love and kisses
Nobby
I wrote and an hours report this morning but it somehow disappeared into cyberspace, so am trying again. Also I have tried to send three other emails from this server but am getting failure notices so may have to send this from Yahoo later.
I left you last time in Belem - Sunday, a week ago - so to continue - Monday I went walking after looking at yellow pages for travel agents and eventually found one but a lot of walking. they had a seat to Manaus for Wed for $140 or so so I took it but in Brazil nobidy acepts foreign credit cards, so I walked to the nearest ATM but it doestnt like foreigners too, so bus to town then try 4 ATMs before one talks to me inluding several technical rejections. Bus back to agent, get ticket and home just after lunch. rested for rest of day.
Tuesday into town to try a tour of river; nothing suits so try the local ferry service and they hace a ferry going up river for 1.5 hrs and then back $2 each way. so I take it. Fascinating - all the locals carrying stuff to their island places or whatever all black/dark skinned. Altho the river is 320 kmz wide here it has 1000 islands in between - the big one I told you about and many others some of considerable size - 10-15kms - so from the shore yo can only see about 8-10 kms of water. very deep. We head upriver between some islands lots of shanty house along the bans where very poor people live ekeing out existence from fruit and hunting or maybe a couple of cattle. I found it amazing and interesting. Only stopped at three places - in last 20 mins - and unloaded frieght, then back via a diff route in a very narrow channel. Another pro offered her wares to me on the returrn trip but fat and ugly so I said no. The waterways are quite laberynthine so only locals could navigate there I am sure..Home late arvo then prepare for tomorrows departure.
Up early Wed and get to airport by bus - I find it very easy to get buses to and from the airports and bus terminals; saves $20 per trip - easy to get tickeded and able to relax in air comfort of airport for a couple of hours. Sat next to a 15yo girl, Roberta, who was talkative (and clever as she spoke very slowly and distinctly). Became good friends. After lamding, her mum was not there so I helped her with bags etc and we chatted till mum arrived - by bus!! Mum was suspicious of me I think but I left. But they called me back as they were going on bus too, so we waited together, then her estranged dad arrived and mum sent her (reluctantly) with dad but mum - Joselia - dtayed with me. She took me to town and showed me the hotel and ensured I was safe and installed. Meantime she had relaxed and gave me her address and details and she is a lolly seller in a poor barrio (!!). I spend entire afternoon looking for agents to get tickets for exit plus tickets for a jungle tour; cannot find Venez consulate. So decide to ignore Venez and try Colombia. They can get me a ticket for Sat to the far west of Amazon called Tabatinga (Brazil) plus a two day tour for Thurs Frid. Once again the hassle of getting an ATM but this city centre is smaller but still much walking. Eventually get all arranged. Don´t know if I can exit Tabatinga.
Decide that if I am to see Joselia adn family It is that night, so take the bus she told me and travel for 35 mins and dont know where to exit , ask busman and he says wait. We get to the terminal for that line the very edge of city I think, and he says to walk two blocks. I do and find the plaza and with soime seaaarching find Joselia. She and Roberta are astonished!! she has a fixed stand 2x1 mts roofed with electricity sells sweets, drinks and makes simple food like fried banana crisps and empanadas. I spend enjoyable 2 hours with them and thier friends - all accept me - an oddity I suspect but all restful and friendly. The whole town is in the streets (30C, 98%) and school is on one side of strteet and soccer field of sand on other. They warn me to be careful going to bus stop - which is hard to find - but people I meet treat me well and help happily and absolutely no problems. Amazing and unique experience. Schools here run 3 sessions a day to accomodate the numbers thats why school was on at 9 at night.Home very late more walking to get to hotel.
Next day early start for tour. They take us - 4 Spanish, 2 young/cocky Belgians - in car to meeting of waters where we cross to south bank via small motor boat. Manaus is on north side of two rivers whhich meet 15 kms east of city - rivers flow west to east of course - imagine a Y lying on its side >-- sort of - so we go in a kombi van for an hour into jungle travel thru wetlands most of time road is raised about 2-3 mts. Lots of farm houses with cattle and some crops. Then in a long canoe with 40hp outboard for another hour to get to cabins where we stay. Also get two Venez guys added. We swin in mighty Amazon - or a tributary- for an hour or two and have fish lunch the fish is called piraucã and the one we saw was 2 mts long , can you imagine!! we only saw the fillet which was as tall as the boy holding it. Then after lunch to spot monkeys motor for an hour row 30 mins but the 4 Span and 2 Belg talk sing shout whole time so no animals seen but the trip was amazing as I find it impossible to tell where the main stream goes there are so many backwaters and tributaries the water is about 2 mts below max and the marks are easily visible on trees and banks. Some parts are 20 mts deep and otheres only 8-10 mts . The river will drop another 10 mts before next big wet so many parts will be dry. Incredible to see these giant tress growing in the water. I loved the trip.
Home to fish for piranha - I caught the first and the largest, got 5, but Emilio got 8, We ate thjem next day in a soup!! They are only tiny fish about 6-8 cms high, 12-15 cms long and 2 cms wide , oval shape. Teeth are sharp and jaws are very strong - cannot remove stick from mouth once they bite it. We caught these fish in same spot where we swim!!! they only attack if you have fresh blood wound. Then alligator spotting after dinner called caimans here they grow to 3 mts but that takes 30-50 yrs. We caught one about 2-3ft. More swim after dinner had some caiperinhas - rum based drink good to get drunk on!!. Tipsy to bed.
Up at 5.30 for bird watching and sunrise saw 100s of canaries and lots of other birds and heard more. After b/fast we went for jungle hike supposed to seee monkeys and lots more. But the talkers are more noisy than ever so no chance but we see a tarantula and a 6 ft green snake which I almost trod on. non poisonous but aggressive and throws entire body when strikes so guide was worried. It was ready to attack me but I got good photo. Walked non stop for 2.25 hrs Lumch and more swim, then depart for town. Get hotel again and prepare for depart from Brazil next morn.
Got to Tabatinga easy shared taxi with two others to Brazil immigration and get exit. Then we take motor bike taxi to the Colombian town of Leticia. Imagine me with big mochila on back and holding little day pack and we are on a bike!! quick cheap and easy. Get to airport and have to get to town again to accept credit card then back again to airport and they have plane leaving in 3 hrs for Bogota. So arrive in Bog and take minibus to city and find hotel next to the one Sherry recommended - it is full as there is a convention on in town.
So I am in Spanish country again and it almost feels like my home tongue after the portuguese.
Must away, hope this gets to you all.
Love and kisses
Nobby